National Parks of Utah: Capitol Reef

Most of you that follow me on social media know that my wife and recently traveled to southern Utah visiting a few of the national parks there. These next few weeks I will cover our trip, park by park, and share our experiences there. In addition to that, I want to be able to offer up what to expect if you decide to make the journey to Utah. I would highly recommend it. 

Utah has five national parks, known as “The Mighty 5”. On this trip, we visited some of the lesser known parks; the ones that often times get overshadowed by places like Zion and Bryce Canyon. This can especially be said for two of the three parks we visited; Capitol Reef and Canyonlands, which are hidden gems in my opinion. Funny enough, I would say those two parks were my favorite of the trip! All three had their own experience to offer and while they were all relatively close in distance, they were vastly different from one another and each felt unique. This week we are going to be focusing on Capitol Reef National Park. 

Established in 1971, Capitol Reef is located in south-central Utah, near the small town of Torrey. Red rock canyons, Navajo sandstone domes and monumental cliffs are just a few of features travelers will observe here. Capitol Reef is most known for a geological wonder that falls within its boundaries, the Waterpocket Fold. A classic monocline; uplift occurring 50 to 70 million years ago has formed a steep fold in the Earth's layers. The west side of the fold rises about 7,000 feet higher than that of the east side making the fold distinctly visible from above the park. More recent uplift, roughly 15 million years ago, has resulted in additional exposure and erosion which led to the forming of "waterpockets" giving the fold its name. This fold extends approximately 100 miles north to south and is the defining feature of Capitol Reef. To put it simply, it is a wrinkle in the earth. 

 

Capitol Reef has a vast history of Native American presence as well as early settlers. The Fremont culture, named after the Fremont River that flows through the park, were possibly some of the first inhabitants of the area. Their presence is still documented on various rock faces in the form of petroglyphs. These petroglyphs, or rock art, are believed to be up to 2,000 years old and depict the ancient stories and art of the people living there. What caught my eye were the many drawings of bighorn sheep. Still present but rarely seen, depictions of the bighorn shows how long these creatures have thrived in this desolate landscape. It also told me that the Fremont, probably hunted bighorns in these very canyons. Looking around at all the vertical cliffs and steep rocks, I couldn't imagine pursuing these animals in these rugged surroundings. Especially with primitive weapons. I am sure the Fremont were some amazing hunters and people.  

In addition to the Fremont peoples, the Mormons also had a historic presence in the area. Settled around the Fremont River, Fruita is a Mormon frontier community settled in the 1880's. Remnants of the community is still seen in the form of an old school house and the fruit orchards which still produce fruit to this day. Unfortunately, in March the fruit was not in season. In June, the fruit trees are loaded and visitors can pick endless amounts of fruit for only a small fee. Applies, peaches, pears and apricots are just a few fruits to name. The mule deer could be regularly seen within the fruit orchards. The Gifford Homestead is located smack dab in the middle of Fruita and is known for its homemade pies. We were able to celebrate Pi Day (3/14) by enjoying a couple of pies from the homestead on their opening day for the year. I decided to go with strawberry rhubarb, while Kitty kept it classic with apple. Both were fantastic and I would have happily gotten another except for these pies were in high demand. Forty dozen were baked and by 11:00 AM they were all sold out. After tasting one, I understood why. 

Fruita also provides Capitol Reef's only campground. This was our home for three days and two nights and it was a special feeling to think that our tent was pitched where a Native American or pioneer camp could have once stood. The mornings were dark in Capitol Reef, our tent nestled between two steep canyon walls. The walls shrouded the suns rays from the campground, even after official sunrise, darkness continued to loom. In addition to the dark, the mornings were cold here in March. Temperatures some mornings hovered just below twenty. Getting up and ready for the day was never fun, but it was a must. A morning campfire or hike were our means of warming up the body. 

While there is a good amount of hiking available in Capitol Reef, there were two hikes that really stand out and in my opinion and are must do's if ever visiting. The first one being Hickman Bridge. The journey to Hickman Bridge is just shy of two miles and allows for add on trails to the Rim Overlook and the Navajo Knobs trail. The Hickman Bridge trail starts along the Fremont River until you finally turn and begin a slight ascension to reach the canyon top. From there you will drop back down into the canyon and following the path to Hickman Bridge. The reds, yellows and oranges of the desert were sprinkled with life in the form of green junipers and pinyon trees. Emerging around a bend in the trail, Hickman Bridge appears, offering a spectacle view. It is quite literally a bridge, connecting two rock walls. The formation of the bridge is due to time and erosion. As we approached the bridge, the sounds of each step and our voices echoed throughout the canyon. 

My personal favorite hike at Capitol Reef was Cassidy Arch. Named after Butch Cassidy, the famous outlaw of the Old West. The trail to Cassidy Arch is found within the canyon walls of the scenic drive. Kitty and I were the first ones to the trail and we had the whole place to ourselves. It is often rare to be the only ones on a trail. The trail to the arch is a little over three miles that follows the side of the canyon. Up, up, up you go until you reach the top of the mesa. Following the canyon along its cliffs, weaving in and out, the cliff is your trail. We finally reached a portion of the trail that is made up of slick rock. Instead of a worn trail, we now following cairns, small stacks of rock that provided point to point navigation. In the desert, cairns are important to not getting lost. Unlike most arches, one can actually walk across Cassidy Arch. Stunning views can be seen from the arch down into the inner walls of the canyon. At times along the trail, we could see where we had parked and started this fantastic hike. We finally reached the arch, 400 feet above the road we took to reach the trailhead. The climb is steep, but the view is worth it. 

The scenic drive through Capitol Reef is spectacular. and highly recommended. A paved stretch of 20+ miles provides awe inspiring views of the canyons, domes and cliffs. Kitty and I both said aloud "wow" as we a-topped the hill to be presented with this grand sight. At the end of the paved road, you can continue to drive along a dirt road through the inner canyon, which is also recommended. The inner canyon drive is wild and allows for an alternate view of these magnificent rocks. You can really get an idea of the vastness and verticality of the canyon walls. We were told this was area was the best location to spot a desert bighorn sheep although the odds were still low. The bighorn population of Capitol Reef was reintroduced in 1984, 1996 and 1997 and the herd we can see today is from these reintroductions. We never did spot a bighorn while in Capitol Reef but it wasn't without multiple attempts!

Kitty very much wanted to horseback ride so we hooked up with Wilderness Ridge Adventures and had a guided horse ride through the mesas and canyons. It was an experience straight from the Old West and one of my favorite parts of the trip. Our guide was a character who provided a lot of information and history about the area. Butch Cassidy had a huge presence here and there was a high chance we were riding horses where he once did. The Henry Mountains provided us with a back drop so stupendous when juxtaposed to the warm colors of the high desert. The snowy peaks almost seemed out of place with the rest of the landscape. 

The thing I loved most about Capitol Reef was its silence. We were able to remove ourselves from the distractions of the real world and immerse ourselves in the solitude of the landscape. At times, it would be so quiet within the canyon walls that you would be overcome with an eery feeling. Capitol Reef has created a special place in my heart since visiting. Only now, I realize how much this place is the hidden gem we were told it would be. Kitty and I shared some great experiences and memories of this place that we will share forever. To get the full experience of the park, I believe a person needs two full days. Capitol Reef is full of history and pristine views. Definitely make the drive down the scenic highway, take a hike or two and reward yourself and your taste buds with a delicious homemade pie. Now go. You. The desert is waiting. 

If you're curious about more on the park or want to know more about our trip, leave a comment on this post and I will answer any questions you may have. You can also send me a direct message from my blog. That can be found on the left side of my page. 

Next week, I'm covering our time in Arches National park, so stay tuned for that. Until then...stay wild.

Brock

Capitol Reef website: https://www.nps.gov/care/index.htm